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"I was inspired by westerns and the paintings of Tina Modotti, whose best friend was Frida Kahlo,manolo blahnik," said Marras, to explain the mix of Hispanic florals, dark nobility and embroidered decoration with a undercurrent of military camouflage. In spite of its historic starting point and the long Edwardian skirts, this was an approachable Marras collection, in which he mixed deftly brief denim jackets, embroidered drop-crotch jeans, bright flowers on a black velvet coat, leather with lace, and tiered skirts with rich jacquard weaves. This skill makes him the romantic artist he is.
Sturdy winter coats are the essence of the Max Mara brand. For once the house was true to itself, showing predominantly outerwear, fancied up with fringing on pockets, pompoms on knitted shorts and shiny patent belts although the clothes would have been fine with just the hooded sweaters that ran through the show. You have to admire Italy’s manufacturing skills that can give luster to the work horses of a winter wardrobe, tailoring a bulky coat in sleek, white mohair or houndstooth tweed and making a Prince of Wales check pantsuit look slick and business-like. The mainly black and white palette was equally no nonsense and although Max Mara’s forays into eveningwear are never so convincing, this season’s offering was respectable as bulbous brocade taffeta skirts came out with sweaters.
Why do houses have runway shows? That is a question that dogs every fashion city. But if you are going to bring your line to Milan to stake an international presence, Pringle made an effort to stand out. With bare branches of silver birch trees, imported from Scotland and lined up in an ancient Milan theater, Pringle celebrated its 190-year heritage with a nod to North of the Border.

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