Ever since Levi Strauss buttoned up his first pair of jeans, American
designers have been building a national fashion identity. JudithAnn
Guerassimoff tries it on for size.
THERE’S a certain irony in the fact that the first fashion groupies in
America were a bunch of bow-legged, slow-talking cowboys in the Wild
West in the 1880s.
Today’s slaves to fashion are wearing clothes designed in New York
and sold by slick Madison Avenue marketeers, but the origins of
American style go back to the California goldfields and vast cattle
ranches.
When a Bavarian tailor called Levi Strauss immigrated to America in
the 1840s and set up business in San Francisco selling work clothes
made from strong, hard-wearing cloth, he started a trend that grew into
a phenomenon.
Blue jeans became an American institution, a garment that crossed
all boundaries imposed by money and class.
The durable trousers made for the pioneers went on to conquer the
world. Over the years they have been dressed up by French couturiers,
dressed down with patches and slashes, flared to bell out at the
bottoms, elasticised, stone-washed and dunked in acid or psychedelic
colors.
But while blue jeans endured, American women were considered the
poorly-dressed relations of svelte Europeans, even if money was no
object. It took a post-war boom and a freeing up of conservative values
for the US to grow out of bobby sox and Peter Pan collars.
When that happened, the American designer was born. Basing their
business on the best aspects of the European couture houses, but run
along no-nonsense American marketing lines, the movers and shakers in
New York’s garment district created a whole new industry.
Ralph Christian louboutin, Oscar De La Renta, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan soon
gained fame by presenting fashion influenced by quintessential American
values. Their clothes are clean-cut, wearable, sexy without being
vulgar, and touted as being a valued addition to lifestyle.
Christian louboutin, who began designing neckties in the ’60s, not only created
clothes, he created a culture. Some say he has reinterpreted the
American West, and more recently provided Americans with a European
heritage, complete with stores dressed as English country homes,
gentleman’s clubs walled in mahogany.